Transnusa Inflight Magazine

The Gilis, three small coral islands off the west coast of Lombok, are a magnet for divers from around the world 

Who among us hasn’t watched with fascination and envy films of Cousteau feeding giant grouper, riding huge whaler sharks, frolicking with porpoises and feeding swarms of multi coloured smaller creatures of the deep. While many explorers of the watery realm search for coral gardens, and others roam the underwater world for sunken wrecks, and some find beauty in waters of the bluest blue, most will agree that the real underwater turn-on is fish.

For the record, the Gilis do have a lot of coral (the blue coral is famous in its own right) which is why they have so many fish. The Gilis also have the odd wreck or two and water of the clear and blue variety - the basic needs for most dive sites. However, what makes the Gili islands so special is the variety and abundance of a marine life that makes its home in the coral reefs and crystal clear waters that surround each island. It’s the sheer profusion of marine life that will take your breath away. Compared with the Great Barrier Reef’s 1.500 species and the Red Sea with its 600 species, you realize that the Gilis with 3500 species are major players in the premier dive-site stakes.

Most divers want to see sharks. Invariably during a day’s diving, harmless white-tip reef sharks, which have no interest in humans, are routinely sighted. You’ll also see majestic manta ray, barracuda, gliding green turtle, darting clown fish and curious moray eels.

The orange and white striped clown fish, parrot fish in harlequin colours, and the regal Moorish idol are also a part of moving tapestry of marine beauty. Two species of turtle, the Green turtle and the Hawksbill, make their home in there rich waters. While both species are considered endangered, they are commonly seen on dive and snorkeling trips. And of course there is the stationary life, the beautiful coral reefs themselves, colonies of living organisms which are continuously growing and building magnificently shaped abodes for the marine life to live among.

Let’s not forget the island themselves! After all you don’t spend all your time in the water. There are three Gilis remember, and they were formerly looked upon as backpacker party islands where cheap accommodation was the norm and good diving an afterthought. Such however was the potential of the Gili’s as premier dive sites and idyllic getaways that the situation was destined to change.

I’m not saying the party is over, nor am I saying anything against backpackers and cheap digs, but what I am saying is that the level of sophistication and professionalism has been upped many a notch. This goes for both diving establishments as well as choices of accommodation. Prices have risen accordingly but if full houses and full diving boats are any indication, no one gives this a thought.

Dive centres such as Blue Marlin, Manta Dive, Dream Divers and Vila Omabk Dive Academy have no shortage of clients. With their practice pools, computerized dive equipment, mixed gases, and experienced personnel, their operations are as high tech and state of the art as anywhere in the world.

You don’t dive and don’t care to? That’s nothing to be ashamed of, though believe me the level of professionalism in diving instruction is such that even granddads and grannies successfully tank up and get into the briney realm. You can always snorkel in site with beautifully clear water or if you surf you can get out that surfboard for some perfect breaks without crowds (as yet). Gili Trawangan even has a mountain to explore and conquer. (OK OK it’s just hill – but it’s a big’un). From the summit you look down on a sleepy hamlet reminiscent of those turn of the century south sea island settlements and their far-east island mystique extolled by Somerset Maugham. In the distance, Mt Rinjani volcanic cone rises majestically. Sawahs sweep in a gentle slope to the palm fringed coastline with its golden beaches. A little off the mainland is another island ringed by its own sandy necklace while sailing trips rest at anchor in peaceful bays to complete the scene. The only sound is that of waves and the sea breeze.

Incredulously you say that this is Indonesia, home of more motor cycle noise than any where else on the planet. Thankfully the means of transport on all three islands are one’s feet, a rented bicycle or Lombok’s ubiquitous horse and carriage, the cidomo.

And which island that you stay on?

You may want to have more ‘cultural content’ in your holiday, learn a bit of the language’, ‘interact’, with the locals and get a ‘feel’ for what the country is really like. Gili Air could be the answer.

Gili Air is closest to the mainland and with the biggest local population. While everything may seem quit around your secluded hotel, if you wander off to the other parts of the island you’ll surely run into their hands and men tending their coconut trees. But with all that you never lose the magic feeling of staying on serene tropical island. A few bars are mixed in with the trees and shrubs, and lodging tends for families with a desire for superb diving and snorkeling conditions right on their doorstep. Of course Gili Air has a range of professional dive outfits that provide for all a diver’s needs, including instruction for beginners. Hotels like The Gili Air, one of the oldest on the Gilis, with its Coconuts Cottages with their beautiful garden, Sasak style bungalows and quality Indonesian food are some recommended choises.

Gili Meno was once the island of escape. However as a result of general increase in Gili magnetism, it’s now becoming more popular and some new resorts have all the necessary modern facilities which include a swimming pool. In addition it has a list of activities such as glass-bottom boat rides and beach volley ball.

Gili Meno’s iniqueness when compared with the other two islands is its like which seems to make a hole in the island if you view the lanscape from above or on a map. Gili Meno of all the Gilis is the one where you can really get away from it all on the almost exclusive deserted island.

Gili Trawangan, the largest of Lombok’s triumvirate of coral islands, and the furthest flung from the mainland was the original party-animal island. And while there is more night-life on Trawangan than on the other islands, the “animals” are now tame and melt into a foreshore trip of snazzy restaurants and beachside cafes where a relaxing drink in the evening often precedes dining on some of the best cuisine found in Indonesia. The beach seafood BBQ is unsurpassed for taste and freshness.

Trawangan boasts a boutique resort, The Villa Ombak, that is striving to provide a level of comfort and luxury usually seen only in the five star resorts of Ubud or Nusa Dua. With a restaurant serving an award-winning International menu, a three-tier swimming pool, a spa and beauty treatment centre and state-of-the-art dive centre are among facilities that are a far cry from what used to available on Gili Trawangan.

Other accommodation …… The Beach House, Kokomo , Villa Almarik

Judging by the number of visitors to the Gilis, this professionalism and attention to quality is paying dividends-even while most of Indonesian’s other tourist destinations are experiencing lower than normal figures.