They were first discovered by back-packers back in the 1970’s, when they became a popular well-kept secret among a more adventurous crowd seeking to escape to an island paradise, far from the madding crowds of Kuta, Bali .The waters are crystal clear and teeming with marine life, and the beaches pure white sand where you can snorkel straight off the beach. The Gilis are the best place in Indonesia to enjoy an island lifestyle.

Although the first to develop homestays was Gili Air (the nearest island to Lombok), it is Gili Trawangan that subsequently became known as the ‘party island’ – a young, adventurous European crowd having way too much fun far away from home. Simple bungalows with generator supplied electricity soon proliferated catering to a crowd eager to get off the beaten track.

The Gilis Today. In recent years the scene has changed rapidly on Gili Trawangan, whereas Gili Meno and Gili Air are developing at a far slower pace. Trawangan still maintains its timeless tropical paradise charm, but now has a wider range of facilities to cater to a broader spectrum of travellers. There’s still plenty of back-packer rooms priced around US$10 / night, but there are also some very chic bungalows, villas and hotels complete with private swimming pools and all mod cons. All have been constructed in harmony with the islands’ local charms – natural materials and simple elegance being the dominant theme of most developments. No high rise hotels, and definitely no tour buses or McDonald’s, but plenty of Dive Centres to help you explore the islands’ famous coral reefs.

Getting around. Motorised transport is banned from all three islands – you get around on foot, by bicycle or by horse-cart. Bicycles can be hired for Rp. 10,000 – 15,000 / hour, or daily rate of Rp 50,000. Horse-carts, known as ‘Cidomos’, charge according to distance.The minimum for short distances is Rp 30,000 with Rp 50,000 the most common price asked.  Agree on the price before you leave with a bit of friendly bargaining. The walk around Trawangan takes anything from 90 minutes to all day, depending on your pace… it’s about 8 km in circumference.

To get between the islands, you can either charter a local boat for around Rp.155,000, or take the twice daily ‘Hopping’ boat which costs just Rp. 20,000 per person. Ask at your hotel or at the harbour for the latest schedules.

Accommodation Options. Gili Trawangan is roughly divided into four different areas - South Beach, Sentral, Snorkelling Beach and Secluded, which covers everything north of Villa Almarik.

The majority of the dive shops are located in Sentral, and all dive operators have rooms available. There are two boutique hotels on Trawangan, Vila Ombak in South Beach, and Villa Almarik to the north. There is also two villa complex, one with eight spacious luxury villas, each with its own swimming pool and the other Ko-ko-mo with ten villas.

Room options run the gamut from basic bamboo huts to fully air conditioned rooms with hot water, satellite TV and swimming pools. Sentral has the majority of the “losmen” style rooms which are primarily fan cooled with a “mandi” style bathroom. These rooms are the cheapest option, and can be had for under $10 in low season. The next level of comfort is roughly $20-30 and for this you get A/C and hot water, and sometimes mosquito nets. Things get trickier in high season when surcharges apply and there are not enough rooms to handle the demand. This can lead to price gouging in some of the cheaper accommodation.

Some hotels such as Vila Ombak, Dream Bungalows and Goodheart have “lumbung” style rooms. This is basically an elevated Balinese wooden rice-barn fitted out with a small verandah, beds and connected by ladder to a bathroom on the ground floor. They are air-conditioned, comfortable and exotic. Marta’s Bungalows does the ultimate “lumbung” which is a concrete version complete with marble bathrooms and two bedrooms.

How to choose ?? Well, it all depends upon your budget and what you want to do. Many visitors come to Gili T for dive certification, and staying with the dive operator is the logical choice in this instance. Otherwise, it’s a trade-off between luxury, comfort and adventure.

The two hotels are at opposite ends of the island and offer a choice between proximity to restaurants and nightlife, or quiet and seclusion. The other luxury option is The Beach House, which is South Beach in the center of the action, and has one of the best bar / restaurants on the island. Tir na nog Bar next door also has a comfortable two bedroom villa for rent. If money is no object, the Villa Kelapa is a perfect solution. The luxurious, spacious two and three bedroom villas are built around a private 15m swimming pool and garden, and well suited to the indulgence of indoor-outdoor living in lay-back luxury.

Those opting for seclusion head to the north end of the island for spectacular sunsets and uninterrupted views of Mt Agung on Bali. Desa Dunia Beda offers exotic Javanese style wooden houses and Balikana unusual “lumbung” style rooms. Alam Gili is a sister property to the popular Alam Jiwa in Ubud, and offers a similar experience. newest entry here is Vila Grazia which is very slick and Italian.

Money Matters On the gili islands there are two ATM’s but no banks. In the high season the ATM machines often have long queques and run out of cash, so it is best to change your foreign currency before you arrive. Most mid-range and upmarket accommodation and dive centres, take credit cards. There are also places where you can get a cash advance on your credit card, but there is a standard 10% additional fee for this service. Beach House amd most dive centers provide this service. Money changers will change currency and travelers checks, but you’ll get a lower rate than on Bali - about 400 rupiah per dollar. No banks in Indonesian accept torn or damaged notes, and no USD$100 earlier than series 2004.

Security & Health Centres With small, close-knit communities, and an increasing reliance on visitors to the islands, the local community ensure that theft and crime is almost non-existent. Sightings of uniformed police are rare – the local security force is the SATGAS, whose office is near the harbour on Gili Trawangan. You wouldn’t know they are there unless you need them. As a precaution, however, use the safety deposit box facilities available in most hotels for your valuables.

There are two health clinics on Gili Trawangan – one at Villa Ombak, and another in the village. For more serious problems you’ll need to get to Mataram on Lombok or Denpasar on Bali.

Communications The more upmarket hotels have IDD telephones in their rooms, but this is a luxury on the Gili Islands. There are plenty of internet cafes dotted around; connections are slow but perfectly usable. As in most small communities in Indonesia, there is a WARTEL (“Warung Telecommunikasi) which provides full telephone and fax services. This is located near the art market on Trawangan.

Activities.

• Surfing - Famous Sunset Point is a great surf break on the SW side of the island
• Sea Kayaking - Try an exhilarating paddle accompanied by an experience guide
• Walking - Explore the island on foot.The island is so small you can’t get lost !!
• Horse Riding - Choose a mount at the Stud Stables for an unforgettable ride on the sand
• Fishing - Join local fishermen who still use traditional wooden outrigger canoes
• Bird Watching - Visit the Bird Park on nearby Gili Meno
• Golfing - Lombok Kosaido Golf Course is twenty minutes away by boat
• Snorkeling -Grab a mask and fins and head to any of the nearby beaches