I live in Bali and travel frequently to its eastern outposts. Over the years the standard of accommodation and hospitality there has improved immensely. I now have a number of favourite haunts along the way.

Bloo Lagoon, perched on a promontory overlooking Padangbai harbour on one side, and Amuk Bay on the other, provides breath-taking views over to Nusa Penida and on a clear day, even Gunung Rinjani on Lombok. The eco-resort is designed by an eccentric English architect who studied with, and adheres to, Buckminister Fuller’s precepts of design. The result is an aware, eco-conscious hotel that addresses the problems of our troubled planet. The hotel is in wood which is sourced from sustainable forests. The layout is open and sparse, and accentuates the spectacular views. As water is precious, wastewater is re-cycled and rainwater is harvested. Refuse is re-cycled. There is a stunning platform that juts out towards Penida for doing morning yoga, and a pool area which is child-friendly. Products used in the hotel such as soaps, jams and bread are sourced locally as much as possible. Highest accolades for a masterful effort.

My next stop would probably be Seraya Shores, just a few hundred meters past the Ujung Water Gardens of Amlapura. It is an eclectic array of whimsical design - part zany Zen and part baroque Bali - which was built over a seven year period. The owners worked in one of Bali’s premier hotel groups, and this was to be their “retirement” village. All of the seven villas have names as varied as their design. We stayed in villa no 2 - The Loft. This was Jamie and Amanda’s home for many years while thery were building, and it displays a level of comfort that is ‘homely”. I particularly love the humongous outdoor bathroom with its “waterfall” shower and intricate Balinese carvings on every wall. It is a few small steos to the magnificent cantilevered terrace which serves as the “restaurant”. I felt as if I were on an ocean liner as I sat surveying the horizon. I spent many an hour one afternoon observing a pair of local fishermen with Velcro feet, immovable on very wet rocks, waves crashing over them, casting for fish in the surf of an incoming tide. The saner fishermen were setting drift nets. The following morning I woke at dawn and settled into the same chair to watch the self-same fishermen collect their nets and harvest their bounty. Graceful sailing jukung (out-rigger canoes) from a near-by Muslim fishing village were returning from a night’s fishing and looking very pleased with their results. As one would expect from denizens of the hospitality industry, the level of food & beverage was excellent and the service superb. I can understand why the Russian next door had booked in for a month !!

The steep, and winding road from Ujung to Amed is one of my favorites in Bali. The incline of the road, the poverty of the people and the dryness of the region mean there are no trucks travelling that section and the driving is bliss. I love reaching the top of the ridge where Bali’s eastern most lighthouse blinks waring to passing ships. The view from there down to the fishing village of Gili Selang is perhaps the most picturesque in all of Bali. I have often wondered how to descend down to that cove covered in colourful jukung, but have never been game enough to try !! I invariably continue along, hugging the “safe” side of the road and timorously peering over at the spectacular views. I usually end up at Dancing Dragon Cottages for a well deserved stop and something healthy to eat. The white sand beach of Lipah has a lovely snorkel out to a coral encrusted “Japanese” wreck in five meters of crystal clear water. The best diving on this part of the coast is found at Cemaluk. I am always fascinated by the unique Balinese salt works found a few kilometers further along the road from the dive site parking lot.

The road loops back onto the main Amlapura - Gilimanuk road and not so far along is Tukad Dabu, four kilometers before reaching Tulamben. This is the new “hotspot” for Tulamben diving -

well, at least if you are an U/W photographer into “macro”. David Doubillet, the amazing U/W photographer from National Geographic did an entire article on “muck diving” and all the weird and wonderful creatures to be found on black sand. This area was made famous by Chritina Waldheim who pioneered the photography here. She has built her retirement villa on the dive site and is its unofficial guardian and keeper. Her home, Villa Markisa, is Macro HQ and a delightful place to stay as well. Germanic efficient holds sway and all runs like clockwork. Next door is Scuba Seraya which offers a similar standard of comfort with a Swiss twist.